Nestled in the tranquil mountains of Nepal, Thula Kedar, also known as Badi Kedar Dham, is a sacred gem located in Badikedar Rural Municipality Ward No. 5 of Doti District. Perched at an impressive altitude of 2,891 meters, this revered site is a harmonious blend of myth, culture, and natural beauty. The temple—set against the serene Lanakedareswar Lake—is a place of profound spiritual significance, cherished by devotees from Nepal and India. Thula Kedar is recognized as the origin of all Kedar temples in the region, known locally as “Madau,” and is deeply rooted in the cultural and religious history of Upper Bogtan.
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The Enigmatic Legend of Thula Kedar
The story of Thula Kedar begins with a miraculous event, where a cow’s milk was discovered flowing onto a sacred rock. This serendipitous moment revealed the Sahastra Linga, a divine stone that became the centerpiece of worship at Thula Kedar.
The sacred Kedar rock is located on a slightly flat area between two large rocks on the peak of the mountain in the north of Lanakedareswar Lake. Brahmin priests perform rituals on a platform nestled between these stones, offering prayers and milk to the deity. During the annual jatra (festival), Chokha caste monks perform sacred dances at the ghat, while people from other castes participate by dancing on another large stone. These rituals and traditions emphasize the temple’s cultural and spiritual depth.
Mythology links this site to Kartikeya, also known as Mohanyal, the son of Kedar. It is said that the place where Mohanyal was washed away is located below Thula Kedar. According to legend, Mohanyal was washed away by Kedarnath in the lower Bogtan into the Mandakini River. The story of the god Wadatado of Kumaon Garhwal traveling to Katyur to bring Mohanyal from the lower Bogtan is also supported by a folk tale recounting the war with Khapre. This tale highlights how Mohanyal, with divine intervention and immense strength, saved Kedar during an attack by Khapre Rakshasa. His bravery in defeating the Khapre Rakshasa remains a celebrated part of local folklore, symbolizing the victory of good over evil.
A Journey to Thula Kedar
The journey to Thula Kedar is a mesmerizing blend of natural beauty, cultural richness, and spiritual devotion—a true gem for any trekking enthusiast. Starting from Bayal Doti on a crisp November morning, I joined a group of locals on the seven-hour trek through dense forests and rolling hills. The trail, though challenging at times, was a feast for the senses and the soul.
The adventure began in the pre-dawn hours with an uphill climb to Chor Kharka. The first rays of sunlight broke through just as we reached the ridge, bathing the landscape in a golden glow. The dense forest came alive with birdsong, and the cool, dewy air carried the scent of earth and pine. It was one of those moments when nature reminds you to pause and take it all in.
As we continued, the trail led us across ravines and streams, each step offering a new perspective on the pristine beauty of the region. Soon, we arrived at Fursil, a picturesque village nestled by the Tunagad River. From afar, we could see the charming old watermills and modern suspension bridges spanning the riverbanks. The Tunagad River, a lifeline for the area, not only sustains the surrounding villages but also powers local hydroelectric plants that bring light to homes in this remote region.
After crossing the river, the trail resumed its ascent. Initially gentle, the climb became steeper, testing our stamina but rewarding us with spectacular views. On one side, the lush green forests stretched endlessly, and on the other, the mighty peaks of the Mahabharata and Karnali Hills loomed above, painting a picture-perfect panorama.
The journey was as much about the people as it was about the path. Along the way, pilgrims of all ages joined the trek, united by faith and determination. Among them were elderly men and women, some well into their seventies, walking steadily up the rugged slopes with sticks in hand. It was inspiring to witness their resilience and devotion.
The highlight of the trek was reaching Ghalghale Lake, a natural gathering point for pilgrims from nearby villages like Bogtan, Lana, and Dipayal. The lake offered a serene backdrop, while the majestic flow of the Karnali River and the surrounding mountains added to its charm. The energy at the lake was contagious—pilgrims rested, shared stories, brewed tea over open fires, and prepared for the final stretch to Thula Kedar.
The last leg of the journey took us to the Kedar Pass, where the trail became steeper but no less rewarding. As we approached, the landscape transformed into a canvas of fluttering prayer flags and vibrant spiritual energy. At one point, we reached a site where pilgrims traditionally leave their walking sticks, symbolizing the completion of their spiritual journey. The pile of sticks stood tall, a testament to the countless footsteps taken in faith and devotion.
Finally, arriving at Thula Kedar felt nothing short of magical. The vibrant Badikedar fair was in full swing, with deities paraded in grand processions and pilgrims gathered in prayer. The scent of incense filled the air, and the rhythmic beats of the traditional Deuda dance drew everyone into its circle. This centuries-old dance, performed with poetic exchanges and coordinated steps, transcended language and culture, creating a profound sense of unity among strangers.
For those seeking a trek that combines natural wonders with spiritual depth, Thula Kedar is an experience like no other. It’s a journey where every step brings you closer to nature, community, and perhaps, a deeper connection with yourself.
The Vibrance of the Badikedar Fair
The annual fair at Thula Kedar is a celebration of faith, culture, and joy. Pilgrims from Nepal and India converge to partake in this grand event, transforming the site into a kaleidoscope of colors, music, and devotion. The Deuda dance is a highlight, where participants link arms in a circle, singing verses that blend humor, romance, and tradition. Even as a newcomer, I felt welcomed into this centuries-old tradition.
Other festivities include the Maruni dance by the Magar community and devotional bhajans sung throughout the night. Grand processions carry idols from nearby villages, and rituals involving offerings of cow’s milk take place with solemn reverence. Couples seeking blessings for children visit with unwavering faith, adding a deeply personal dimension to the celebrations.
Itinerary for Thula Kedar Trek
Route 1
Day 1: Arrival at Dhangadi and Journey to Dipayal
- Arrival at Dhangadi Airport:
Land at Dhangadi Airport, a major gateway to the Far-Western Region of Nepal.- Suggested Time: Morning flight.
- Drive to Dipayal:
- Distance: Approximately 170 km.
- Duration: 6–7 hours by road (via the Seti Highway).
- Mode of Transport: Private jeep or local bus.
- Highlights: Scenic views of the Seti River, lush hills, and rural villages along the way.
- Overnight Stay: Dipayal (local hotels or guesthouses).
Day 2: Dipayal to Bayal Doti & Start of Trek
- Drive to Bayal Doti
- Start Trekking from Bayal Doti to Thula Kedar(all stops included)
- Starting Point: Bayal Doti
- First Stop: Chor Kharka
- Trek Duration: 1 hour of steep uphill climb.
- Highlights: Sunrise views, dense forests, and fresh mountain air.
- Second Stop: Fursil
- Trek Duration: 2 hours (crossing ravines and streams).
- Highlights: Suspension bridges, old watermills, and views of the Tunagad River.
- Third Stop: Ghalghale Lake
- Trek Duration: 3 hours (crossing gentle and steep ascents).
- Highlights: Meeting point for pilgrims, panoramic views of the Karnali River, and surrounding mountains.
- Final Stretch: Kedar Pass and Thula Kedar
- Trek Duration: 1 hour of steep ascent.
- Highlights: Prayer flags, spiritual ambiance, and the Badikedar fair.
- Night Stay: Explore the Badikedar fair and participate in local rituals.
- Highlights: Deuda dance, offerings at the temple, and scenic views of the Mahabharata and Karnali Hills.
Day 3: Return from Thula Kedar to Bayal Doti and Drive Back
- Trek Back to Bayal Doti:
- Duration: Approximately 6 hours (same route).
- Drive to Dipayal:.
- Optional Stay or Continue to Dhangadi:
- Drive from Dipayal to Dhangadi: 6–7 hours.
- Recommended Overnight Stay: Dipayal or Dhangadi based on your schedule.
Route 2
Day 1: Arrival at Dhangadi and Travel to Attarkanda
- Arrival at Dhangadi Airport:
- Land at Dhangadi Airport, the starting point for your journey.
- Suggested Time: Morning flight.
- Bus Journey to Attarkanda:
- Route: Dhangadi → Attaria → Sahajpur → Attarkanda.
- Distance: 104 km.
- Duration: Approximately 4–5 hours by bus.
- Highlights: Scenic drive through the Far-Western Terai, passing vibrant local towns and rural landscapes.
- Overnight Stay: Attarkanda (basic lodges or local guesthouses).
- Day 2: Attarkanda & Start of Trek
Key Notes:
- Total Trekking Duration (Round Trip): Approximately 13–14 hours spread across two days.
- Trek Difficulty: Moderate; involves both gentle and steep ascents.
- Accommodation: Camping options available at Thula Kedar.
- Best Time to Visit: October to November or March to May for pleasant weather and clear views.
- Essentials to Carry: Warm clothing, trekking shoes, water, snacks, first aid, and a camera for capturing scenic landscapes.
Places to Visit in Badikedar Rural Municipality
Badikedar Rural Municipality is not only home to the sacred Thula Kedar temple but also boasts numerous other attractions that captivate visitors with their natural beauty and spiritual significance. Among them:
- Kalaruwa Lake: Nestled in Mannakapadi, Badikedar Rural Municipality-4, this serene lake is believed to be the abode of Kuntamata Bhagwati in ancient times. Surrounded by lush greenery, Kalaruwa Lake offers a tranquil retreat for nature lovers. Efforts are underway to conserve the lake, including plans for walking paths and deity statues to enhance its spiritual and ecological appeal.
- Melghati Deu: A peaceful site ideal for those seeking solitude and a connection with nature, Melghati Deu’s serene surroundings make it a must-visit for anyone exploring the area.
- Mohanyal Temple: Deeply connected to the mythology of Thula Kedar, Mohanyal Temple attracts devotees who come to seek blessings and immerse themselves in its spiritual ambiance.
Exploring the Natural Wonders
Thula Kedar is a gateway to some of Nepal’s most stunning natural attractions. From the serene Kalaruwa Lake, believed to be the abode of Kuntamata Bhagwati, to the peaceful retreat of Melghati Deu, the surrounding area is a treasure trove for nature lovers. The Mohanyaltemples, rich in history and spirituality, is also must-visit sites. As night falls, the twinkling lights of the Tarai region below create a mesmerizing spectacle.
The Trekking Experience
For adventure enthusiasts, the trek to Thula Kedar is both challenging and rewarding. I chose the Dipayal route, a path renowned for its scenic beauty and cultural encounters. Crossing rivers and valleys, the trail winds through Chor Kharka and Ghalghale Lake, offering panoramic views at every turn. Alternatively, travelers can take a 104-kilometer bus journey from Dhangadhi to Attarkanda via Attaria and Sahajpur.
Preserving the Legacy
Recognizing the cultural and natural significance of Thula Kedar, local authorities are actively working to preserve its heritage. Conservation efforts include restoring Kalaruwa Lake, improving road networks, and promoting sustainable tourism. These initiatives aim to ensure that the site’s spiritual and cultural legacy endures for generations.
Why Thula Kedar is Unmissable
Thula Kedar offers something for everyone. Nature enthusiasts will marvel at the panoramic views of Api and Saipal peaks, while cultural explorers will delight in the vibrant traditions of the Badikedar fair. For spiritual seekers, the sacred Sahastra Linga provides a serene space for reflection and connection.
Conclusion
Thula Kedar is not just a destination—it is a journey into the heart of Nepal’s rich heritage. Its divine legends, vibrant traditions, and stunning landscapes make it a place of unparalleled beauty and significance. Whether you’re seeking adventure, spirituality, or cultural immersion, Thula Kedar promises an experience that will linger in your heart and mind long after you’ve left. Pack your bags, lace up your trekking boots, and embark on a journey to this timeless sanctuary.
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